The Maintenance Guide for Your Watch

Maison MORFIN • Maintenance Guide

Fundamental principles, periodicity, and essential checks contributing to the reliability and longevity of your watches.

Reading: 7 to 9 minutes Mechanical / Automatic Maintenance & service

1. Understanding How a Mechanical Watch Works

A mechanical watch operates thanks to energy accumulated in a mainspring, progressively released by the escapement, then transmitted to the hands by a train of high-precision gears.

Each component is subjected to constant stress. The precision and longevity of the movement rely on three essential balances:

  • Perfectly controlled lubrication of the movement
  • Effective protection against shocks
  • Impeccable water resistance of the case

Note: Rigorous and regular maintenance helps maintain these balances over time.

For a detailed understanding of the architecture and operation of a mechanical movement, we invite you to consult our article on the subject

2. Winding the Mechanism: How to Adopt the Right Practices?

A daily gesture that directly influences regularity.

Manual winding mechanical watch

Manual winding is a structured daily gesture for the movement.
Recommended procedure:

  • Remove the watch from the wrist to avoid any lateral stress on the crown
  • Perform approximately 15 to 20 crown rotations to start the movement
  • Adopt a slow, fluid, and regular motion
  • Stop winding immediately upon feeling significant resistance

Excessive or brutal winding puts unnecessary strain on the mainspring and can, in the long term, lead to premature wear of the mechanism.

Automatic winding mechanical watch

The automatic movement is primarily recharged by wearing it.
Usage principles:

  • Regular wear helps maintain the power reserve
  • If stopped, a few manual rotations of the crown are enough to restart the movement
  • The use of a watch winder can be considered for frequent alternation, provided it is strictly adjusted to the caliber
Good to know: Keeping a movement running, even when the watch is not worn, helps preserve the fluidity of lubricating oils and limits the risk of mechanical degradation associated with prolonged inactivity.

3. How to Set the Time and Date?

Essential order and precautions.

Setting a mechanical watch follows a precise sequence. Respecting this order is crucial for preserving internal components and the movement's reliability.

Recommended procedure:

  1. Unscrew the crown, if applicable, without applying force
  2. Pull the crown to the second position for time setting
  3. Set the time by advancing the hands, steadily
  4. Gently push the crown to the first position for date setting
  5. Adjust the date only outside of the date change period
  6. Push the crown back to its initial position
  7. Screw the crown back in precisely, without excessive pressure
Note: The date change period is generally between 10 p.m. and 4 a.m. Any manual correction during this time slot is likely to damage the calendar mechanism.

4. Protecting the Movement from External Aggressions

The environment directly influences precision.

The stability of a mechanical movement is closely dependent on its environment. Certain external stresses, even common ones, can permanently alter the precision and reliability of the timepiece.

Shocks & vibrations

Shocks and vibrations disrupt the regulating organ and can lead to a loss of precision.

At risk: impact sports, DIY, heavy handling, drops.

Magnetic fields

Magnetization is one of the most frequent causes of time deviation. A mechanical movement contains many metallic parts sensitive to magnetic fields.

At risk: loudspeakers, induction chargers, smartphone placed on the watch.

Temperature variations

Extreme thermal variations deteriorate oils and gaskets. Thermal stability is a determining factor for the durability of the movement.

At risk: sauna, hot water, prolonged sun exposure.

Seawater & corrosive substances

Exposure to salt water and corrosive agents accelerates the degradation of gaskets and promotes the oxidation of metallic components. Even with certified water resistance, these repeated aggressions weaken protections in the long term.

At risk: seawater, chlorine, household products, perfumes, solvents, cosmetics. 

Good practice: Regular maintenance and periodic checks help preserve these balances and maintain the movement's performance over time.

5. Cleaning: Method According to Materials

The right cleaning methods

Cleaning a watch follows a conservation logic. It aims to preserve finishes, legibility, and functional integrity, without ever altering surfaces.

Case and crystal

  • Clean with a clean, dry microfiber cloth
  • Wipe without pressure, using linear motions
  • For light dirt, slightly dampen microfiber, followed by immediate drying
  • Pay particular attention to contact areas and finishing edges

To avoid: solvents, alcohols, household products, abrasive agents

Leather strap

  • Avoid all contact with water and moisture
  • In case of accidental exposure, dry immediately in the open air
  • Alternate straps, especially in warm weather
  • Store away from heat, direct light, and chemical agents

To avoid: forced drying (sun, heat source), contact with perfumes, cosmetics, or alcohol-based solutions

Steel bracelet

  • Lukewarm soapy water
  • Gentle cleaning with a soft brush
  • Thorough rinsing, without pressure
  • Complete drying, especially between links

To avoid: degreasing or corrosive products

Good practice: A water resistance check is highly recommended before any contact with water.

6. Watch Overhaul: When and Why?

Movement preservation and continued performance

Overhauling your watch is an essential preservation operation. It aims to maintain the precision, reliability, and water resistance of the movement, regardless of any apparent failure.

A complete overhaul includes the full disassembly of the movement, cleaning of each component, lubrication according to caliber specifications, rate adjustment, as well as precision and water resistance checks.

The overhaul frequency depends on the watch's usage, environment, and exposure conditions. It should be considered as preventive, not corrective, maintenance.

Warning signs requiring intervention

  • Unusual advance or delay
  • Significant decrease in power reserve
  • Abnormally stiff crown or irregular operation
  • Presence of condensation under the crystal (immediate intervention required)

FAQ

Can I wear my watch in the shower?
It is not recommended. Steam, heat, and soapy products accelerate the aging of gaskets.
Should I use a watch winder?
Yes, if you alternate several automatic watches. However, it must be correctly configured to avoid excessive strain.
My watch is suddenly slow, what should I do?
Magnetization is a frequent cause of time deviation. Repeated micro-shocks related to daily use can also affect the movement's regularity. A qualified watchmaker can quickly identify the cause of the malfunction and remedy it.

Conclusion

A well-maintained mechanical watch is a lasting investment. By adopting the right practices and planning maintenance proactively, you preserve the performance, aesthetics, and value of your timepiece.

Maison MORFIN supports you in the monitoring, maintenance, and preservation of your mechanical watch.


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